> When Warm, Hot

Beans like a warm sunny spot. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. These tall plants are vulnerable to being blown over, so should be sheltered from high winds and supported on a stable and secure structure.

> When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
> When min soil temp: 65°F

Dark and Light-Seeded Beans: Dark-seeded beans are more resistant to rotting in cool soil than light-seeded beans. Beans need a minimum soil temperature of 65°F (18°C) to germinate well, otherwise rotting may occur. Around 80˚ F is ideal.

Seed Depth

1.0"-3.0"

The depth they are planted varies according to the soil temperature. They should be planted 1" deep in cold soil and 2" (or even 3") deep in warm soil. The deeper planting ensures they get enough moisture.

Spacing

4.0"-5.0", 9 plants per sq ft

Rows: These are best grown in offset rows, across the bed. You want the plants to be 4 to 5" apart. 

Thinning: Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants and thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. To thin, pinch out the extra plants, as this doesn't disturb those remaining. Always try to remove the inferior plants and leave the best.

Spring Crop

2-4 weeks after LFD

Put your first beans in the ground 2-4 weeks after the last frost date. Make sure the soil is warm enough though. The seeds will rot if it's too cold.

Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole.

One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.

1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants

2. Thin to the approximate spacing after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.

If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).

Inoculation

Bean plants don’t fix nitrogen; nitrogen fixing bacteria that grow in nodules on their roots fix nitrogen. If the right strain of bacteria isn’t present in the soil in sufficient quantity, no nitrogen will be fixed and the bean plants will take it out of the soil just like any other plant. If you have grown beans in the past 3 to 5 years, there are probably enough bacteria already in the soil for good nitrogen fixation and you don’t need to inoculate. If you haven’t grown them recently, you should inoculate the seeds with the appropriate bacteria. This can boost pod yields by as much as 60%.

To improve and hasten emergence:

One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.

Summer Crop

4-12 weeks after LFD

Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole.

One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.

1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants

2. Thin to the approximate spacing after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.

If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).

Inoculation

Bean plants don’t fix nitrogen; nitrogen fixing bacteria that grow in nodules on their roots fix nitrogen. If the right strain of bacteria isn’t present in the soil in sufficient quantity, no nitrogen will be fixed and the bean plants will take it out of the soil just like any other plant. If you have grown beans in the past 3 to 5 years, there are probably enough bacteria already in the soil for good nitrogen fixation and you don’t need to inoculate. If you haven’t grown them recently, you should inoculate the seeds with the appropriate bacteria. This can boost pod yields by as much as 60%.

To improve and hasten emergence:

One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.

Support

No

Bush beans do not need any support structures.